Category Archives: Bespoke Tailoring

Want to look a million dollars or look like a millionaire?

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shadow-dollar-sign-1239535Surprisingly they might not be the same thing?

Following in the footsteps of Snapchat co-founder Evan Spiegel we reckon that developing a solid style “uniform” is the way forward. It shows that although you may be in town with your supermodel girlfriend (yes, you!),  you also have serious work to do.

The “millionaire uniform” of choice is jeans, T-shirt, crewneck sweater, and clean white sneakers all of which are practical without being dumpy. The best part of this look is that anyone can pull it off. The trick is to take your time and find the right basic elements that fit your body like a glove.

It’s a look that could be got so wrong though.  Whilst you don’t have to spend a fortune, you should invest in high-quality items and those overused greying sneakers will have to go! However, once you’ve found items that fit well and work for you, buy a few different colours of each. Just stick to some universally flattering colours like navy, grey and olive green, all of which are bang on trend this season and stay away from head to toe brights!

Soon you’ll be looking a million dollars!

Why buy bespoke?

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teoman yukselThere’s no denying that buying a bespoke suit is an investment but when you consider that wearing a suit that’s been made to fit you and only you, will make you look taller, slimmer, fitter and younger – plus it’s likely to last a lifetime.

Buying an off-the-peg suit is easy: all you have to do is pop out of the office at lunch time, call in at your favourite menswear department and walk out with a brand new suit. However, ready to wear suits – even the most expensive ones – are cut from standard patterns and offer limited opportunities to add your own personal style.

Buying bespoke, on the other hand, offers so much more. Agreed bespoke suits are more expensive but nothing quite beats the confidence of wearing hand tailored garments that have been made to suit your exact size, shape and gait.

The bespoke process

Admittedly, if you’ve never bought bespoke before, the process can seem a little daunting. Choosing a tailor is the first step and although Savile Row is beyond most budgets, there are legions of great tailors providing bespoke tailoring throughout the UK – look no further than www.nortonandtownsend.com or if in doubt, ask for recommendations.

Even ordering a simple suit can get quite complicated as, unlike off-the-peg, your tailor will offer you the choice of hundreds of fabrics and styling options. Remember that your tailor will guide you through the process but it’s still a good idea to have some idea of what you want in advance. The internet is a great source of ideas and inspiration but if this is your first bespoke suit, it’s probably best to keep things simple.

Choosing the right cloth

Suiting cloth is available in a range of weights but as a general rule of thumb a mid-weight cloth is ideal for a suit that you’d wear for the majority of the year. Heavy-weight cloths are a tailor’s dream as the drape is fantastic but in reality will be far too warm for all but the coldest months. Lightweight cloths such as linen are ideal for keeping cool in hot summer weather and cashmere, although cashmere – considered to the most luxurious option – can look shiny. Again your tailor will advise you.

Know your suit style

The style of your suit is incredibly important and if you’re labouring under the illusion that the choice is limited to single or double-breasted then you need to think again. Single breasted jackets are by far and away the best sellers but when you take into account lapel size and width, pocket detailing, jacket length, waist and vent style or trouser width things can get a lot more complicated. This is where the knowledge and expertise of a bespoke tailor comes in and they will guide you towards the best suit style to suit your body shape and gait.

Buying bespoke is an unbeatable way to build your perfect suit and will ensure you get exactly what you want. Yes bespoke is more expensive than off the peg, but when it comes to handcrafted tailoring, made to fit you and only you, buying a tailor made suit is the only way to buy your perfect suit.

 

 

Do you know cut of your cloth? Suit fabrics explained

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Suit style is important but when it comes to buying a new suit, the cloth you choose should be the first consideration. Remember that a suit says a great deal about the wearer and is a great opportunity to showcase your style and personality to the world. A new suit should be chosen not only for the fit but also from the cloth from which it is cut.

Luckily there’s only a relatively small selection of fabrics which are suitable for suiting which helps to narrow down the choice but nevertheless a number of things should be taken into consideration when looking for that perfect cloth.

Breathability is important as no-one wants to feel hot and sweaty during the summer, whilst chattering teeth aren’t too pleasant when the temperatures drop in winter. Fabric softness should also be considered: itchy wool is likely to drive you made and a suit that feels to started and crisp offers little in the way of comfort. So what makes the ideal cloth for suiting? We asked for some advice from master tailors norton and townsend

Wool

Wool is the still the most popular choice when it comes to suits and this is largely down to its versatility and classic look. Wool is naturally breathable, making ideal for wearing throughout the majority of the year. Wool feels soft to the touch and is crease resistant; however it is sometimes dismissed as being bulky and unflattering by those who prefer more slimming fabrics.

Worsted wool

Extremely durable yet smooth to the touch, worsted wool cloth is a compact textile that does not need to be spun. Rather than being spun, worsted wool is combed using a carding process which leaves the longer strands of fibre to produce a fabric that is smooth yet tough. Worsted can be woven in a variety of ways to produce suiting cloth such as tweed, flannel or gabardine.

Cashmere

Cashmere is perceived to be the last word in luxury when it comes to suiting cloth but it can result in a shiny looking suit which is likely to make it unsuitable for work. On the other hand cashmere is unbeatable when it comes to creating the perfect suit for a wedding or formal occasion.

Cotton

Cotton is still a very popular choice for suits and you might be surprised to learn that sales of cotton suits come a close second to wool. Like wool cotton is completely natural and offers natural breathability and ease of movement; however it does tend to crease easily which can make a suit look scruffy or ill-fitting.

Linen

Cool, crisp linen makes a wonderful suit for summer and is synonymous with laid-back languid style. However, linen does crease easily – especially in humid climates – and is prone to staining, calling for regular dry cleaning to maintain the look of the suit.

Silk

A silk suit offers the last word in luxury. Breathable and naturally able to regulate your temperature, a silk suit will keep you warm in winter and cool in summer. The ideal choice for wedding or luxurious event, a silk suit is undeniably expensive but should be considered a worthwhile investment if you attend lots of black-tie functions.

Velvet

If a velvet suit makes you think of the 1970s and Liberace then think again. Luxurious, touchable and incredibly stylish when in the hands of a good tailor; a velvet dinner jacket looks can be worn year round.

A tailor made suit can prove an expensive investment so going bespoke means getting it right first time. When choosing fabric for a bespoke suit, think about when you’re planning on wearing it, your body shape and how comfortable you’d like to be. Take these factors into consideration and you’ll be fine.